As a general guideline, most adult dogs should be fed 2–3% of their ideal body weight per day in raw food, fed as one meal or split over two if preferable. A 20kg dog at a healthy weight, for example, would need approximately 400–600g of raw food daily. Dogs that are highly active or underweight may need closer to 3%, whilst overweight, sedentary, or senior dogs may do better at 1.5–2%. Puppies are different again — they require significantly more relative to their body weight, typically 5–10% depending on age.
These percentages are widely used guidelines across the raw feeding community and are referenced by established canine nutritionists and raw food manufacturers. They are not rigid prescriptions. Every dog is an individual, and the right amount depends on a combination of factors including breed, activity level, metabolism, and the calorie density of the food itself. The key is to start with a sensible baseline and then observe your dog’s body condition, adjusting up or down as needed.
In this guide, we break down exactly how much raw food your dog needs based on weight, age, and lifestyle — with practical feeding tables, puppy-specific guidance, and the signs that tell you whether you’ve got the balance right.
Raw Feeding Chart – How Much to Feed by Weight
The table below shows daily raw food quantities for adult dogs at three common feeding percentages. Use 2% as a starting point for less active dogs, 2.5% for moderately active dogs at a healthy weight, and 3% for highly active or underweight dogs. All figures are based on the dog’s ideal body weight — if your dog is overweight, calculate based on what they should weigh, not what they currently weigh.
| Dog Weight | Daily at 2% | Daily at 2.5% | Daily at 3% |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5 kg (11 lb) | 100 g | 125 g | 150 g |
| 10 kg (22 lb) | 200 g | 250 g | 300 g |
| 15 kg (33 lb) | 300 g | 375 g | 450 g |
| 20 kg (44 lb) | 400 g | 500 g | 600 g |
| 25 kg (55 lb) | 500 g | 625 g | 750 g |
| 30 kg (66 lb) | 600 g | 750 g | 900 g |
| 35 kg (77 lb) | 700 g | 875 g | 1,050 g |
| 40 kg (88 lb) | 800 g | 1,000 g | 1,200 g |
| 45 kg (99 lb) | 900 g | 1,125 g | 1,350 g |
| 50 kg (110 lb) | 1,000 g | 1,250 g | 1,500 g |
Please note: These figures are starting guidelines. Calorie density varies between raw food formulations — a lean beef mince will have fewer calories per gram than a lamb or duck recipe with higher fat content. If you’re feeding fattier proteins, you may need to reduce the quantity slightly. If you’re feeding very lean proteins, you may need to increase it. The best measure of whether you’re feeding the right amount is your dog’s body condition over time, not a number on a chart.
If you’re looking at those weekly totals and thinking about convenience, our bulk raw dog food boxes are designed to make stocking up straightforward — particularly for medium to large dogs who go through a fair amount each week.
How Much Raw Food for a Puppy?
Puppies need considerably more food relative to their body weight than adult dogs. This is because they’re growing rapidly and burning through energy at a remarkable rate. The percentage you feed decreases as your puppy matures, gradually converging with adult feeding rates by the time they reach full size.
The following guidelines are based on your puppy’s current body weight, not their expected adult weight. Weigh your puppy weekly and recalculate accordingly — portions should be increasing steadily as they grow but will taper off and even reduce in size as the pup gets closer to their fully grown size.
| Puppy Age | % of Current Body Weight (Daily) | Meals Per Day |
|---|---|---|
| 8–12 weeks | 8–10% | 4 |
| 3–4 months | 6–8% | 3–4 |
| 4–6 months | 5–6% | 3 |
| 6–9 months | 4–5% | 2–3 |
| 9–12 months | 3–4% | 1-2 |
| 12+ months (adult size reached) | 2–3% | 1-2 |
To put that in practical terms: an 8-week-old puppy weighing 4kg would need roughly 320–400g of raw food per day, spread across four meals. By the time that same puppy reaches 6 months and weighs perhaps 15kg, they’d need around 600–900 g per day across three meals.
A note on giant breeds: If you have a breed that will eventually weigh over 35kg as an adult — think German Shepherds, Labradors, Great Danes, or Rottweilers — it’s particularly important to keep them lean during the growth phase. Excess weight puts undue strain on developing joints and bones. Feed towards the lower end of the percentage range and monitor body condition closely. You should be able to feel your puppy’s ribs easily without pressing hard.
The alternative method: Some raw feeders prefer to calculate puppy portions based on 2–3% of the puppy’s expected adult weight rather than their current weight. This approach works best with purebred dogs where adult weight is reasonably predictable. If you have a crossbreed and aren’t sure what their adult weight will be, stick with the current-weight-percentage method and adjust as they grow.
If you’re new to raw feeding and have a puppy, you might also find our guide on how to switch your dog to a raw food diet helpful — it covers the transition process step by step. And for more on meal timing, see our article on how many times a day to feed your dog.
Feeding Senior Dogs a Raw Diet
Senior dogs generally require the same 2–3% of body weight as younger adults. The age at which a dog is considered “senior” varies by breed — most dogs enter this phase around 7–8 years, though larger and giant breeds may get there as early as 5–6 years.
The key variable with older dogs isn’t age itself but activity level and metabolism. A 9-year-old terrier who still tears around the park twice a day may well need the same amount as they did at four. Conversely, a senior dog who has slowed down considerably, or one who has been neutered and is prone to weight gain, may do better at 1.5–2% of their ideal body weight.
What Factors Affect How Much Raw Food My Dog Needs?
The 2–3% guideline is a useful starting point, but several factors determine where your dog falls within that range — or whether they sit outside it entirely.
Activity Level
This is typically the single biggest variable. A working sheepdog, an agility competitor, or a dog who genuinely exercises hard for an hour or more daily may need 3–4% of their body weight. A dog who gets a leisurely 30-minute walk and spends the rest of the day on the sofa is likely fine at 2% or even slightly below. Be honest about how active your dog actually is — many owners overestimate this.
Breed and Size
Smaller breeds tend to have faster metabolisms relative to their body weight and often need a slightly higher percentage — some toy breeds do well at 3–4%. Very large and giant breeds, conversely, often need proportionally less food and may thrive at 2–2.5%. This is a generalisation, not a rule, but it’s a useful starting consideration.
Neutered or Spayed Dogs
Neutering and spaying can reduce a dog’s metabolic rate, meaning they need fewer calories to maintain the same weight. If your dog has been neutered or spayed and is gaining weight on their current portion, try reducing to the lower end of the range before making more drastic changes.
Body Condition Score
This is ultimately more important than any percentage. A simple check you can do at home: run your hands along your dog’s ribcage. You should be able to feel the ribs without pressing hard, but they shouldn’t be prominently visible. When you look at your dog from above, there should be a discernible waist — a narrowing behind the ribs before the hips. From the side, the abdomen should tuck up slightly rather than hanging level with the chest.
If your dog is overweight, calculate their food based on their ideal weight, not their current weight, and feed at the lower end of the percentage range. If they’re underweight, calculate based on the weight you’d like them to reach and feed towards the higher end.
Food Composition
Not all raw food is created equal in terms of calorie density. A lean turkey or rabbit mince will have fewer calories per gram than a lamb, duck, or pork recipe with a higher fat content. If your dog’s regular rotation includes fattier proteins, you may need to reduce the daily quantity marginally. If you’re feeding predominantly lean proteins, you may need to increase it. This is one reason why observing body condition over time matters more than rigid adherence to a single number.
Treats
This is a common blind spot for new raw feeders. Treats — including training treats, dental chews, and any table scraps — should be counted as part of the total daily food allowance, not added on top. If you use a lot of treats during training, consider reducing the next meal slightly to compensate. A rough rule of thumb is that treats shouldn’t exceed 10% of the daily intake.
Signs You’re Feeding Too Much or Too Little
Numbers on a chart are a starting point, but your dog’s body will tell you whether you’ve got the balance right. Here are the practical indicators to watch for.
Signs of Overfeeding
- Weight gain or loss of a visible waist — the most obvious indicator, though it can creep up gradually. Regular body condition checks catch this early.
- Loose or very soft stools — consistently soft stools on a raw diet often point to too much food rather than a dietary intolerance.
- Leaving food uneaten or becoming a picky eater — this is counterintuitive, but many dogs who appear “fussy” are simply being overfed. If a dog is genuinely hungry, they eat. Reducing portions by 10–15% often resolves apparent pickiness within a few days.
- Lethargy after meals — while a short rest after eating is normal, prolonged sluggishness may suggest portions are too large.
Signs of Underfeeding
- Visible ribs, spine, or hip bones — you should be able to feel the ribs, but if you can clearly see them, the dog is likely underweight.
- Low energy or listlessness — a dog not getting enough fuel will lack vitality, particularly noticeable in breeds that are normally energetic.
- Dull coat or excessive shedding — coat quality is one of the first things to improve on a raw diet and one of the first things to suffer if nutrition is inadequate.
- Constantly seeking food or scavenging — persistent foraging, bin-raiding, or eating non-food items can indicate insufficient caloric intake.
Important: Sudden changes in appetite, weight, or stool quality that don’t respond to portion adjustments may indicate an underlying health issue. If you’ve tweaked portions and things aren’t improving after a week or two, consult your vet rather than continuing to adjust food alone.
How to Weigh Your Dog at Home
Accurate weight measurement makes the percentage calculation much more reliable. For dogs small enough to lift comfortably, the simplest method is to step on your bathroom scales alone, note the reading, then step on again holding your dog. The difference is your dog’s weight. For example, if you weigh 70kg alone and 90kg holding your dog, your dog weighs 20kg.
For larger dogs that you can’t safely lift, many veterinary clinics and some pet shops have walk-on scales that dogs can simply stand on.
If you can’t weigh your dog easily, body condition scoring (as described above) is a good alternative. It won’t give you a precise number, but it will tell you whether your dog is at a healthy weight, and that’s ultimately what matters for adjusting portions.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I mix raw food with kibble?
This is a topic of ongoing debate in the raw feeding community. Some raw feeders advise against it, suggesting that raw and processed foods digest at different rates, though there is limited peer-reviewed evidence to support this claim. In practice, many dogs tolerate mixed feeding without issue, and it can be a useful stepping stone for owners transitioning gradually from kibble to raw. If you do mix, feed them at separate meals rather than in the same bowl.
Should I feed raw food frozen or thawed?
Raw food should always be fully thawed before serving. The easiest method is to move the next day’s portions from the freezer to the fridge the evening before. Most 500g blocks will thaw overnight in the fridge. If possible, try not to defrost raw meat in the microwave — it can partially cook the food and create hotspots. Once thawed, raw food should be kept refrigerated and used within 48 hours.
How do I know if my dog is the right weight?
Use the body condition check described above: you should be able to feel the ribs easily without pressing hard, see a visible waist from above, and notice a slight abdominal tuck from the side. If in doubt, your vet can assess your dog’s body condition score on a standardised 1–9 scale and advise whether any adjustment is needed.
What is the 80/10/10 ratio in raw feeding?
The 80/10/10 ratio is a widely used guideline in the BARF (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food) community. It refers to 80% muscle meat (including fat and connective tissue), 10% raw edible bone, and 10% offal — typically split as 5% liver and 5% other secreting organ such as kidney, spleen, or pancreas. It’s a useful framework, though it’s a guideline rather than a rigid scientific standard. Most commercially prepared complete raw dog foods are formulated around this ratio or something close to it.
Do I need to add supplements to raw dog food?
If you’re feeding a good variety of any commercially prepared complete raw foods — the kind we stock at Pet Parlour — then supplementation is generally unnecessary, as these products are often formulated to be nutritionally complete and balanced. If you’re preparing raw meals at home from scratch, you may need to supplement, particularly with omega-3 fatty acids (fish oil is the most common source) and potentially vitamin E. A nutritional consultation can help identify any gaps in a homemade raw diet.
How much does raw feeding cost per month in Ireland?
Cost varies depending on your dog’s size and the specific products you choose. As a rough guide, feeding a 20kg dog on commercially prepared raw food typically costs between €60–€120 per month in Ireland. Our bulk raw food boxes offer better value per kilo for owners who prefer to buy in larger quantities. While raw feeding can be more expensive than an average standard kibble, it may not cost any more per day than a high end kibble for example. Regardless, many owners find the investment worthwhile given the improvements they see in coat condition, digestion, energy levels, and overall health. You can read more about the benefits of raw feeding for dogs on our site.
Start Your Dog’s Raw Feeding Journey
Whether you’re transitioning from kibble for the first time or you’ve been raw feeding for years and want to fine-tune your dog’s portions, getting the quantity right makes a real difference to your dog’s health and vitality.
At Pet Parlour, we stock a wide range of complete raw dog food from trusted suppliers, alongside bulk raw food boxes for owners who want better value and the convenience of stocking up. If you’re unsure where to start — or if your dog has specific dietary needs — Stephen offers one-to-one nutrition consultations (book here) where he can build a personalised feeding plan based on your dog’s breed, weight, activity level, and health history.
Got a question about raw feeding quantities? Browse our raw feeding resource hub or get in touch — we’re always happy to help.
